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Comedogenic Rating of Carrier Oils and Butters

Comedogenic Rating Carrier Oils and Butters

The importance of knowing about Comedogenic Rating of Carrier Oils and Butters

Knowing about the comedogenic rating of carrier oils and butters is a very important point to consider when preparing our own natural products at home.

In this way, we make sure to choose the perfect and appropriate formula for our skin type, in order to achieve the wanted result after the applications.

Unfortunately, although there is a wide range of natural oils to choose from, there is a lot of misinformation about this topic.  For example,  that coconut oil or sweet almond oil are good to use as a make-up remover or moisturizer, when the reality is that if we use them without a proper information, they can cause many unwanted effects on our skin.

However, the use of coconut oil with other vegetable oils or blended with creams, may reduces the occluding action of coconut oil by itself.  

Each natural vegetable oil has its own characteristics which allow them to provide certain benefits. Likewise, they also have components that classify them according to their tendency to clog pores in the skin, what is known as Comedogenic Rating.

What makes natural oils so beneficial for our skin?

Natural oils for skin care are increasingly preferred by society today, which when choosing, is opting for organic and animal cruelty-free products, just to name a few.

Instead of soaking our face and body with chemicals of dubious origin, we are discovering the incredible power of the benefits of natural oils for skin care, whether for therapeutic or aesthetic purposes.

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In addition, each oil can be combined with other natural extracts such as essential oils to create highly effectives homemade serums and masks, since they have been proven to fight acne, wrinkles, scars, infections, eczema, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, and many other skin conditions.

Carrier oils as vegetable, nut, or seed oils are used to dilute essential oils and carry them onto the skin and into the body. The same happens with vegetable butters, which are more suitable for body application.

Butters and vegetable oils are a good source of oil-soluble vitamins, such as A, D, and E, as well as essential fatty acids, all of which are needed by the skin to maintain its health, tone, and elasticity.

What is a Comedogenic Rating?

A comedogenic rating gives us an idea of how likely it is that an ingredient or oil will clog pores. In this way, people who are prone to breakouts should avoid comedogenic oils as they will exacerbate pimple formation. 

On the other hand, people with drier skin might prefer a more emollient oil toward the middle of the scale.

The scale uses a numbering system of 0 to 5, where Ingredients are rated as following:

  • 0  Will does not clog pores
  • 1  Low likelihood of clogging pores
  • 2  Moderately low
  • 3  Moderate
  • 4  Fairly high
  • 5  High likelihood of clogging pores

 

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In addition to the comedogenic rating, the application of high quality, unrefined organic vegetable oils offer an array of valuable nutrients to support, nourish, and enhance the functions of the skin. These nutrients include:

  • Fat-soluble vitamins and nutrients 
  • Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) 

These nutrients, (especially essential fatty acids such as linoleic and oleic acid) will help us identify the comedogenic level of an oil.

Fat – soluble Vitamins and Nutrients in Vegetable Oils

Vitamin E

It is one of the most important antioxidants, which means that it is able to prevent cell damage from the destructive elements of free radicals.

Free radicals, when in excess, can damage healthy tissue, destroy the collagen and elastin fibers that support the skin and interfere with the formation of fresh healthy skin cells making our complexions blotchy and dull.

Vitamin E helps to protect the skin against environmental pollutants. It is used topically to reduce scar formation and to treat burns, including radiation burns.

Besides, vitamin E assists wound healing and has great repairing and regenerating properties. In conjunction with beta-carotene, vitamin E may decrease the harmful effects of the sun. 

Vitamin A

It is an essential vitamin for cellular growth and repair of body tissues. Vitamin A plays a crucial role in preserving the integrity of red blood cell membranes as well as the skin.

Some symptoms of deficiency of Vitamin A include: rough, dry and scaly skin.

Beta-carotene

B-carotene is one of over five hundred carotenes that occur in nature. Beta-carotene, a precursor to vitamin A, is considered to be one of the most active of the carotenes.

Oils rich in Beta-carotene tend to be a rich orange color.

Beta-carotene is found in: carrot herbal oil, palm oil and algae. Palm oil also contains the carotene lycopene, which appears to have more anticancer abilities then beta-carotene.

Additionally, it may play a role in protecting the skin from the damaging effects of the sun, beta-carotene functions as a cellular screen against sunlight-induced free radical change.

Vitamin D

This works with calcium to build bones, teeth and healthy skin. It promotes healing and is good for burns and abrasions. Avocado oil is the only vegetable oil that contains vitamin D.

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Lecithin

This is an important component of cellular membranes, particularly those of the brain and nerves. It is a powerful emulsifying agent and helps to remove fats and cholesterol from the blood.

Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs) found in vegetable oils

Essential Fatty Acids are called ‘Essential’ because our bodies cannot produce them, therefore we must consume them in our diets and apply them to our skin.

EFAs are an important part of the membranes of every cell in our body. Without a healthy membrane, cells lose their ability to hold water, vital nutrients, and electrolytes. They also lose their ability to communicate with other cells and be controlled by regulating hormones.

There are many fatty acids usually found in vegetable oils. The two that are most common are Linoleic acid and Oleic acid.

Unrefined polyunsaturated oils such as flax seed, evening primrose, borage, passionflower and rosehip oil, are rich in EFAs.

Fatty oils rich in EFAs are extremely reactive and are easily damaged by light, heat and oxygen exposure. Keep oils rich in EFAs refrigerated.

Linoleic Acid

It is an essential fatty acid that is important to building the membranes which surround every skin cell. It helps to strengthen the protective lipid barrier that lies beneath the surface of the skin and guards against moisture loss.

Lack of linoleic acid can lead to serious skin problems, premature aging and can reduce the strength of the skin’s supporting collagen fibers which may slow wound healing and can trigger hair loss.

Oils high in linoleic acid are lighter and thinner in consistency. They nourish and protect the skin without being too heavy.

Linoleic acid can restore the skins barrier function and reduce scaling. Besides, people with acne have been shown to have low levels of this acid in their skin.

Non-comedogenic oils tend to be the ones that have high-linoleic acid contents, since it is lighter and absorbs into the skin, without clogging pores.  

It has anti-aging, barrier protective, soothing, and balancing properties, and is most suitable for oily and acne prone skin.

The highest linoleic acid ratio is found in black cumin, evening primrose, hemp, grapeseed, guava seed, passionfruit, papaya seed, prickly pear, pumpkin seed, red raspberry, rosehip, safflower, sunflower, soybean and wheat germ oil.

Borage, castor, cherry kernel, chia, kiwi seed, pomegranate and sesame oils contain high linoleic acid, but have more balanced profiles.

Oleic acid

It is a monounsaturated fatty acid. Vegetable oils with a high content of Oleic acid are more resistant to the damaging affects of heat and light.

Generally, oils higher in oleic acid are better for dry skin types; they are heavier and richer than oils high in linoleic acid.

The acid is absorbed well by the skin, has anti-inflammatory and skin softening properties.

Carrier Oils Comedogenic Ratings

Oleic acid is more occlusive and seals in moisture, creating a film on the skin. Oils high in oleic acid can clog the pores of those susceptible to acne.

The highest oleic acid ratio is found in sweet almond, apricot kernel, avocado, carrot seed, hazelnut, macadamia, macula, olive, palm, sea buckthorn and canola oil, as well as cocoa, mango and shea butter.

Argan, abyssinian, jojoba, rice bran and tamanu oils contain high oleic acid, but have more balanced profiles.

Gamma Linoleic Acid (GLA)

Oils rich in gamma linoleic acid can play an important role in treating inflammatory conditions including eczema, psoriasis, and rheumatoid arthritis.

Apart from breast milk, evening primrose oil, black currant, and borage seed oil are the main sources.

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Lauric Acid 

It has antibacterial and anti-acne properties.  Found in babassu, coconut, date seed, and palm oil.

Myristic Acid 

Found in babassu, palm, and coconut oil.  Myristic acid has cleansing and lubricating properties. 

Palmitic Acid

It possesses soothing, hydrating, anti-aging and barrier-protective effects. High in baobab, brazil nut, macadamia, palm, peanut, rice bran, sea buckthorn and neem oils, as well as mowrah butter.

Palmitoleic Acid 

An omega-7 fatty acid with anti-aging, healing, and rejuvenating properties.  It is found in macadamia and sea buckthorn oils.

Stearic Acid 

It is rich in hydrating properties but occlusive and tends to clog pores for acne prone skin.  Found in butters of cocoa, coconut, mango, mowrah, sal seed and shea, as well as neem, shea and tamanu oils.

Ricinoleic Acid 

Found only in castor oil, ricinoleic acid is an omega 9 fatty acid with antibacterial and cleansing benefits.

Punicic Acid

It is an omega 5 fatty acid only found in pomegranate oil, which has repairing, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties.  

Alpha-Linolenic Acid (ALA)  

An omega 3 and an essential fatty acid that helps skin barrier health. High in black currant, perilla, flax/linseed, pumpkin seed, and soybean oils.

Eicosenoic Acid 

It is an omega 9 with soothing emollient and permeation enhancing properties. High in jojoba and meadowfoam seed oils.

Behenic Acid 

The behenic acid can be found in karanja and mooring oils.  It has restorative, and highly moisturizing and conditioning properties, especially for hair.

Erucic Acid 

High in abyssinian and broccoli oils, erucic acid can also be found in moderate amounts in jojoba and meadow foam seed oils.  It is an omega 9, with a silky silicone-like feel for light hydration.

Now that we have learned a little about some benefits that contain carrier/vegetable oils and butters, we invite you to consult the following table. In it, you can get the orientation of which oils to use according to your skin type.

Carrier Oil and Butters

Comedogenic Rating of Carrier Oils and Butters

Carrier Oil / ButterComedogenic RatingSkin Type(s)Essential Fatty Acid (s)
Abyssinian Seed Oil0-1Most Skin TypesHigh in Erucic Acid and Moderate in Oleic Acid
Acai Berry Oil 2Dry, Mature, IrritatedHigh in Oleic Acid and Moderate in Linoleic Acid
Aloe Oil (Infused carrier oil)Depends on the carrier oil used
Amaranth Oil2-3Dry, MatureHigh in Linoleic Acid and Moderate Oleic and Palmitic Acid
Amla Oil1Mature, Hyperpigmentation, (Best for Scalp Conditions like Alopecia)High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic Acid
Almond Oil, Sweet2Dry, Sensitive, Acne-ProneHigh in Oleic Acid
Andiroba Seed Oil2Dry, Irritated, Acne-ProneHigh in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Linoleic Acid
Apple Seed Oil0-2Dry, MatureHigh in Linoleic Acid, Moderate Oleic Acid
Apricot Kernel Oil2Combination, DryHigh in Oleic Acid
Argan Oil0All Skin TypesHigh in Oleic Acid, Linoleic Acid
Avocado Oil3Dry, Acne-ProneHigh in Oleic Acid
Babassu Oil1-2Most Skin TypesHigh in Lauric, Moderate Myristic and Oleic Acid
Baobob Seed Oil2Most Skin TypesHigh in Oleic Acid, Moderate Linoleic
Black Cumin Seed Oil2CombinationHigh in Linoleic Acid, Moderate Oleic
Blackberry Seed Oil0-1OilyHigh in Linoleic
Black Currant Seed Oil0-1Dry, SensitiveHigh in Linoleic Acid + GLA and ALA
Black Raspberry Seed Oil1-2Dry, Combination, Acne-ProneHigh in Linoleic Acid, Moderate Linolenic
Blueberry Seed Oil0-1Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Acne-ProneHigh in Linoleic Acid, Moderate Linolenic & Oleic
Borage Oil2Combination, Oily, SensitiveHigh in Linoleic Acid and GLA
Brazil Nut Oil2Dry, MatureHigh in Oleic Acid, Moderate Linoleic
Broccoli Seed Oil1Dry, Best for Night/HairHigh in Erucic Acid and Oleic Acid
Buriti Oil2Dry, MatureHigh in Oleic Acid
Cacay Oil1-2All Skin Types, Oily SkinHigh in Linoleic Acid
Calendula Oil (Infused carrier oil)Depends on the carrier oil used
Camellia Seed Oil (High oleic acid/Green tea seed oil)1Most Skin TypesHigh in Oleic Acid (79%)
Camellia Seed Oil (moderate oleic acid)2-3Dry, MatureOleic Acid (36-42%)
Camelina Oil3-4Dry, MatureHigh in Linolenic Acid
Carrot Seed Oil3-4Dry, MatureHigh in Oleic Acid
Castor Oil1Most Skin Types, including Oily/Acne-ProneHigh in Ricinoleic Acid
Chardonnay Grape Seed Oil1-2All Skin Types, Oily Skin/Acne-ProneHigh in Linoleic Acid
Cherry Kernel Oil2Most Skin Types, especially Dry/IrritatedHigh in Oleic and Linoleic Acid
Chia Seed Oil3Best for Body UseHigh in Linolenic
Chokeberry Seed Oil1-2Oily, Sensitive and DryHigh in Linoleic Acid
Cloudberry Seed Oil1Oily, Acne-ProneHigh in Linoleic and Linolenic Acid
Cocoa Butter4Ideal for Body/Eye Area, not for Oily/Acne-ProneHigh in Oleic and Stearic Acid
Coconut Butter4Very Dry, Best for Body UseHigh in Oleic, Stearic and Palmitic Acid
Coconut Oil4Very Dry, Best for Body UseHigh in Lauric Acid
Coconut Oil, Fractionated2-3Most Skin TypesHigh in Caprylic and Capric Acid
Cottonseed Oil3Best for Hair or BodyHigh in Linoleic Acid
Cranberry Seed Oil2Dry, Acne-ProneHigh in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic and Linolenic Acid
Cucumber Seed Oil1Most Skin TypesHigh in Linoleic Acid
Cupuacu Butter4Very Dry, Best for Body UseHigh in Stearic and Oleic Acid
Date Seed Oil3DryHigh in Oleic Acid
Elderberry Seed Oil1-2Most Skin TypesHigh in Linoelic and Linolenic Acid
Evening Primrose Oil2-3Oily, Acne-Prone, CombinationHigh in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in GLA
Flax Seed Oil (Linseed)4Very Dry, Best for Body UseHigh in Alpha Linolenic Acid
Guava Seed Oil1-2Most Skin TypesHigh in Linoleic Acid
Goji Berry Seed Oil0-1Oily, Acne-Prone, CombinationHigh in Linoleic Acid
Grapefruit Seed Oil2Oily, Acne-Prone, CombinationHigh in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic Acid
Grapeseed Oil1Most Skin TypesHigh in Linoleic Acid
Green Coffee Oil2DryHigh in Palmitic Acid and Linoleic Acid
Hazelnut Oil1Most Skin Types, especially Sensitive, Acne-ProneHigh in Oleic Acid
Hemp Seed Oil0Most Skin Types, including Oily/Acne-ProneHigh in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Linolenic Acid
Jojoba Oil2Most Skin Types, including Oily/Acne-ProneHigh in Eicosenoic Acid
Kale SeedDry, MatureHigh in Erucic Acid
Karanja Oil2Dry, Hair UseHigh in Oleic Acid
Kiwi Seed Oil1Dry, Flaky, Hair UseHigh in Linolenic Acid
Kukui Nut Oil2Dry, Flaky, Hair UseHigh in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic and Linolenic Acid
Macadamia Nut Oil2-3DryHigh in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Palmitoleic Acid
Mango Butter2Most Skin TypesHigh in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Stearic Acid
Mango Seed Oil2Most Skin Types, particularly Dry and SensitiveHigh in Oleic and Stearic Acid
Marula Oil3-4Very Dry, SensitiveHigh in Oleic Acid
Meadowfoam Seed Oil1Oily, Acne-Prone, SensitiveHigh in Eicosenoic Acid
Milk Thistle Seed Oil1Most Skin TypesHigh in Linoleic Acid
Moringa Oil3-4Dry, CombinationHigh in Oleic Acid
Mowrah ButterUnknownMost Skin Types, especially Dry/DamagedHigh in Oleic and Palmitic Acid
Mustard Seed Oil2-3Best for Body UseHigh in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Linoleic and Linolenic Acid
Neem Oil1-2Dry, Acne-ProneHigh in Oleic Acid
Oat Oil1-2Most Skin Types, especially SensitiveHigh in Linoleic and Oleic Acid
Olive Oil2Dry, Acne-ProneHigh in Oleic Acid
Papaya Seed Oil2-3Dry, Acne-Prone, SensitiveHigh in Oleic Acid
Palm Kernel Oil4Very Dry, Best for Body UseHigh in Lauric Acid
Passionfruit (Maracuja) Seed Oil1-2Oily, Irritated, Dry, Acne-ProneHigh in Linoleic Acid
Peach Kernel Oil2Dry, SensitiveHigh in Oleic Acid
Peanut Oil2Most Skin TypesHigh in Oleic and Linoleic Acid
Pecan Oil2Dry, CombinationHigh in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Linoleic Acid
Pequi Oil3DryHigh in Oleic Acid
Perilla Seed Oil1-2Most Skin Types, especially DryHigh in ALA
Pine Nut Oil1-2Combination, Oily, SensitiveHigh in Linoleic Acid
Pistachio OilUnknownMost Skin Types, especially Dry/DamagedHigh in Oleic and Palmitic Acid
Plum Kernel Oil1-2Most Skin Types, especially MatureHigh in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Linoleic Acid
Pomegranate Seed Oil1Most Skin Types, especially MatureHigh in Punicic Acid
Poppy Seed Oil0-1Most Skin Types, especially OilyHigh in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic Acid
Prickly Pear Seed Oil / Barbery Fig1-2Most Skin Types, especially Oily/CombinationHigh in Linoleic Acid
Pumpkin Seed Oil2Most Skin TypesHigh in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic Acid
Red Palm Oil4Very Dry, Best for Body UseHigh in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Palmitic Acid
Red Raspberry Seed Oil0-1Most Skin Types (Natural SPF 28)High in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Linolenic Acid
Rice Bran Oil2Most Skin Types, especially Mature/CombinationHigh in Oleic and Linoleic Acid
Rosehip Seed Oil1Oily, Acne-ProneHigh in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Linolenic Acid
Safflower Oil0Most Skin TypesHigh in Linoleic Acid
Sal/Shorea Seed Butter4DryHigh in Stearic and Oleic Acid
Sandalwood Seed Oil2Best for Therapeutic Purpose on the SkinHigh in Oleic Acid and Moderate in Ximenynic Acid
Sapote Oil /Mamey2-3Dry, Best for Hair LossHigh in Oleic Acid
Sea Buckthorn Oil1Most Skin Types, especially Mature/DryHigh in Palmitic, Palmitoleic and Oleic Acid
Sesame Seed Oil3Dry, IrritatedHigh in Linoleic and Oleic Acid
Shea Butter0-2Normal, DryHigh in Oleic and Stearic Acid
Shea Nut Oil0-2Very DryHigh in Oleic Acid, Moderate in Stearic Acid
Soybean Oil4-5Very Dry, Best for Body UseHigh in Linoleic Acid
Strawberry Seed Oil1Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Acne-ProneHigh in Linoleic and Linolenic Acid
Sunflower Seed Oil0-2Most Skin TypesHigh in Linoleic Acid
Tamanu Oil2Most Skin Types, especially Scarred/SensitiveHigh in Oleic and Linoleic Acid
Tomato Seed Oil0-2Most Skin TypesHigh in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic Acid
Walnut Seed Oil1-2Most Skin TypesHigh in Linoleic Acid, Moderate in Oleic Acid
Watermelon Seed OIl0-1Most Skin Types, especially Oily/Acne-Prone/SensitiveHigh in Linoleic Acid
Wheat Germ Oil5Very Dry/Damaged, Spot TreatmentHigh in Linolenic Acid

You may also like:

Essential Oils How to use and apply them, benefits and more

We hope that you cheer up and venture into creating your own treatment serum. You can use a blend with more than one carrier oil, depending on what you want to achieve to improve your skin.

Finally, you must take into account that there are oils such as rosehip and St. John’s wort oil, which are photosensitive and are not compatible with ultraviolet rays. However,  you can safely include them in your night beauty routine.

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2 thoughts on “Comedogenic Rating of Carrier Oils and Butters

  1. Wow this is so informative. Beyond helpful. I am trying to become healthier from the inside to the outside. Thank you for this. You are now a part of my journey.

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